A Monument of classical Heritage, Glorifying the beauty of Walled City Lahore
WCLA
Lahore, with its glorious past, has historically played the role of one of the most vibrant and colorful cities of South Asia. Today Lahore maintains its identity as the cultural capital of Pakistan. The Walled City of Lahore is the living cultural hub nucleus of Pakistan with Asia’s largest markets, World Heritage Sites, Landmark Monuments, Traditional Bazaars, Enticing Food and Cuisines, Havelis and Museums. Amidst the narrow winding streets and the koochas of the Walled City there is a great hustle and bustle of life. It’s the City that never sleeps.
To save the dilapidating heritage and culture of the walled city of Lahore, the World Bank with the Government of Punjab launched a project “Sustainable Development of Walled City Lahore Project” in 2006 and Aga Khan Trust for Culture was brought on board in 2007 for its execution and technical assistance.
The legal framework for an authority was a part of the project and the legislation was formed as Walled City of Lahore Authority Act. This ACT was approved by the provincial cabinet and was published in the gazette on 18th April 2012.
Thus, the Walled City of Lahore Authority, an autonomous body, was established in 2012 by the Government of Punjab, to work for the preservation, conservation and administration of the old city.
OBJECTIVES OF WCLA:
To provide comprehensive, integrated legal framework and specialized institutional arrangement for the conservation of the heritage & tangible and intangible culture of the Walled City of Lahore
To streamline the conduct of business, commercial activity and to enhance quality of life of the people
To promote tourism and market the uniqueness of the Walled City of Lahore
To achieve these objectives WCLA has set up institutional and legal framework to preserve and promote cultural heritage. WCLA also formulated the Building Bylaws, Heritage Rules and Master Conservation and Re-Development Plan. WCLA has also taken up projects to preserve and rehabilitate historic buildings, monuments and open areas within the Walled City. In addition, initiatives to promote intangible heritage of the region has also been taken up by the Authority.
History
Inside Delhi Gate, is the arty wonder of 17th century, the Mughal era Shahi Hammam, also known as Wazir Khan Hammam.
Shahi Hammam was built around 1634 AD by Hakim Ilmuddin Ansari, popularly known as Wazir Khan, who was the Governor of Lahore during the reign of Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan (r. 1628-58 AD).
“Shahi Hammam was built around 1634 AD by Hakim Ilmuddin Ansari”
It was designed as a public bathhouse to service both the visiting travelers as well as the inhabitants of the city. A caravanserai was also located nearby but it no longer exists. Hakim Ilm ud din Ansari, who was granted the title of Wazir Khan, constructed this Hammam and also the famous Wazir Khan Mosque inside the Walled City. At present Shahi Hammam is the only monumental building in Pakistan that represents the Central Asian/Turkish/Irani tradition of public hot baths.
“Shahi Hammam is the only monumental building in Pakistan that represents the Central Asian tradition of public hot baths”
The building of Hammam
The Hammam is a single storey building covering an area of over 1000 square metres. Built on the pattern of Turkish and Iranian bathing establishments of its time (which consisted of hot, warm and cool plunges, sweat rooms and related facilities), Shahi Hammam is a collection of 21 inter-connected rooms offering all the facilities found in a public bath and an additional room set at an angle facing towards Mecca for offering prayers.
“Shahi Hammam is a collection of 21 inter-connected rooms offering all the facilities found in a public bath”
According to some historical accounts, the Hammam was used extensively by the public during Mughal times and was reserved for the exclusive use of women on a specific day of the week. The Shahi Hammam is the only monumental public bath from that period which still survives in the entire South Asian subcontinent.
The entrance gateway on the west and the main hall in the northern part of the building are exquisitely decorated with frescoed panels depicting angels, animals, birds, floral and geometric designs.
“The Shahi Hammam is the only monumental public bath from that period which still survives in the entire South Asian subcontinent”
The ill fate of hammam after Mughals!
The 17th century Shahi Hammam fell into disuse during the decline and fall of the Mughal Empire and the chaos that followed in the later rules. During the Sikh rule, its heating system was completely damaged and many ornaments were plucked out of the ceilings and walls.
Then came the British Raj and hammam was transformed into the offices and residence of the police and soldiers. After 1947, it was converted into a boys’ primary school, a girls’ vocational school, a dispensary and also served as office for various government departments. Residences for the government employees were also built on the rooftop. The northwestern rooms (Hujras) were rented out as shops by the Department of Auqaf and additional shops or encroachments were made on the façades of the hammam. These encroachments resulted in damage to the structure as well as water ingress in the foundations. Some minor restoration works were carried out in 1991 but those could not be sustained for long.
“During the Sikh rule, its heating system was completely damaged and many ornaments were plucked out of the ceilings and walls”
“Hammam was transformed into the offices and residence of the police and soldiers”
“After 1947, it was converted into a boys’ primary school, a girls’ vocational school, a dispensary and also served as office for various government departments”
Over the years, Hammam had lost its originality and beauty. The meticulously done fresco work, by the master artisans of the Mughal era, was covered with lime wash in later years. The original hypocaust system (a system of central heating in a building that produces and circulates hot air below the floor of a room) was covered with marble and cement in order to use it for offices and other purposes. Similarly, different rooms with system of steam bath, hot bath and washing areas were also made dead and used as offices. Thus, the entire hammam was dead and nothing functional or preserved could be seen.
“Over the years, Hammam had lost its originality and beauty”
“The original hypocaust system was covered with marble and cement in order to use it for offices and other purposes”
Architecture
In keeping with Persian tradition, the baths were illuminated by sunlight which filtered through several openings in the bath's ceiling which also aided ventilation. Most of the hammam's interior was preserved intact, and several Mughal era frescoes have been preserved. As the façade had few windows, merchant shops were permitted to operate along the hammam's outer walls
Hakim Il mud Din Ansari
About the builder -- Hakim Il mud Din Ansari
The story of Hakeem Ilm Ud Din Ansari goes like; Jahangir, the Mughal Emperor, was much perturbed with the untreatable disease of his beloved wife Noor Jahan. After meeting several physicians, he was advised to call Hakim Il mud Din Ansari to his court for her treatment. The disease had taken the Emperor and the Queen into much distress. The physician figured out the cause of disease and cured it by making the Queen walk on burning sand. It was actually a cyst under the foot of the Queen that had made her uncomfortable since long. Hakeem Ilm Ud Din Ansari was at once raised to the position of officer of the hospitals when the queen recovered fully. Recovery of the queen was celebrated in Lahore where the Hakeem was highly praised and the queen presented him with her jewellery.
The history records that Ilm Ud Din had gained much importance in the Royal Court and in the last days of Jahangir, conspiracies of Noor Jahan had created a gap between Shah Jahan and his father, who imprisoned him, while Wazir Khan was appointed as his physician. Asif Khan, the brother of Noor Jahan and father-in-law of Shah Jahan persuaded Wazir Khan to rescue him from the imprisonment and move to Dakkan. The plan was implemented but they were on their way to reach Dakkan when the news of Jahangir’s death arrived, who was on his way to Kashmir. So on the coronation of Shah Jahan the Hakeem was entitled: Nawab Wazir Khan and was later declared the Governor of Lahore.
This is how a Hakeem of Chiniot entered the Royal Court and became the Governor of Lahore during the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan’s reign. Hakeem Ilm Ud Din also got the cognomen Wazir Khan, a title bestowed to him by Shah Jahan because Wazir Khan remained in friendly terms with him even when he was a prince.
He rapidly acquired respectable positions, while in the service of the king. First appointed as the superintendent of his camp- court, then superintendent of the royal kitchen (Mir-i Saman), gradually promoted to the rank of commander and then in 1030/1620 appointed the subedar (Governor) of Lahore. He chose the site for the construction of the Wazir Khan Mosque, which was a central place of Lahore at that time and thus the foundations were laid in 1634/1045.
Some Controversial accounts
Muhammad Latif writes in his book on Lahore that Ali Mardan Khan was appointed viceroy of Lahore and Kashmir in 1631 by Shah Jahan. He also states that Wazir Khan was appointed subedar of Agra, when the emperor returned to Lahore after his second visit to Kashmir, which was in 1632. He further added that in 1634 Wazir Khan died in Agra, because of colic disease. These events do not match with the date of construction of the mosque to Wazir Khan. Also the date written on the main gate is 1045 A.H. that is 1634 A.D. it is also the year of Wazir Khan’s death ascribed by Muhammad Latif. Moreover, the Viceroy of that region at that time, according to this source was Ali Mardan Khan instead of Wazir Khan, which is another controversial issue. If we think it is not possible that during the rule of one Governor the Mosque is constructed and attributed to someone else. So there must be some misconception.
Mamoona Khan, in her book Wazir Khan Mosque Rediscovered writes that another historian, M. Baqir gives somewhat different details about the dates and Wazir Khan. According to him, by 1043/1634 which was the 7th year of Shah Jahan’s imperial position, he decided to come to Lahore. On his way to Lahore the eldest daughter of Dara Shikoh died and Dara himself became ill due to fever. When the imperial physicians failed to cure his ailment, Wazir Khan the then viceroy of Lahore was called in to the court camp on 4th of Shawwal. 1043 A.H. that is April 3rd, 1634 A.D. it is said that he successfully treated the prince who got well. It is also ascribed that Shah Jahan then reached Lahore, being interested in the building work; he took notice of the repair and reconstruction of the royal palaces, entrusting all repair work to the Viceroy Wazir Khan. It seems believable because this account gives strength to Wazir Khan’s governorship of Lahore in 1634, the date inscribed on the mosque.
Credits of Wazir Khan
What Wazir Khan has on his credit is still seen today in Lahore. Being a builder, many outclass buildings in Lahore are built by him. These include Mosques, gardens, hammams (baths), caravanserais, bazaars and Havelis.
A town was also established by him near Gujranwala called Wazirabad after his name.
In Lahore, inside the Walled City, he built a Haveli inside Shah 'Almi Gate, known as Pari Mahal. He built the Shahi Hammam or the Wazir Khan Hammam inside Delhi Gate, the grand Wazir Khan Mosque, another Mosque near Taxali.
He also erected many buildings in his home town Chiniot such as ponds, wells, caravanserais, hospitals and bazaars. He also provided his native city, where he yearned to go, with a fortified wall. All the buildings built by Wazir Khan were extra ordinarily decorated and remains can still be seen today. His masterpieces included the tile mosaic and fresco work. He had spent much of his income on the building of Mosques.
Death of Wazir Khan
It is said that a few months before his death when one day he was entering Agra, while crossing Hathipol his horse stumbled and fell down, Wazir Khan was injured and his condition became serious. The historians state that he wrote his will to give all his property to the Emperor.
Though Wazir Khan is not alive today but his love and passion for building and décor is reflected in the Wazir Khan Mosque and the Hammam. These are two high tourist spots and conserved as well by the Walled City of Lahore Authority.
Conservation
Conservation of Shahi Hammam – a landmark project by WCLA and AKTC
The Walled City of Lahore Authority in partnership with AKTC and funding from the Royal Norwegian Embassy and Government of Punjab, conserved this majestic monument in 2014.
Removal of Encroachments – the first step towards conserving the masterpiece
Almost 52 encroachments from the façade of Shahi Hammam were removed in 2012 (by the WCLA with funding for compensation by Government of Punjab), as part of the Royal Trail Project. The conservation of the hammam was not a part of the package-1 project and that was dealt with separately.
A resettlement action plan (RAP) was designed for compensating the vendors occupying the spaces on the façade of Shahi Hammam. They were paid according to the then District Administration rates of per square foot piece of land. The Social Mobilization Wing met this uphill task and convinced the ages old encroachers to leave the place and settle somewhere else by paying them a handsome amount. The shopkeepers, shop owners and salesmen, all were paid for vacating the space through the resettlement action plan.
Once, they moved out of the space, the temporary and permanent structures that were built on the façade and western side of hammam were demolished and the original façade was restored. Till then, no one had the idea of what was beneath the marble flooring inside hammam and that was a wonder revealed!
The temporary and permanent structures that were built on the façade and western side of hammam were demolished and the original façade was restored
The proposal of conserving and restoring Hammam was pitched to different donor agencies, and finally, the Royal Norwegian Embassy took up the project with Aga Khan Trust for Culture (AKTC).
WCLA’s project partner AKTC-AKCSP carried out the restoration of the Shahi Hammam, with grant support from the Royal Norwegian Embassy. The conservation project was in the range of USD 1 million and the RNE contributed USD 650,000, while remaining amount was by the Government of the Punjab.
In 2013, the conservation process began!
The AKCS-P and WCLA’s collective team initiated the process of documenting the historic building with electronic distance measurement tools and photo ortho-rectification. Several phases of exploratory activities were then carried out to study the causes of decay to the building’s structure and architectural features. The building’s form along with its historic function was examined by removing all modern elements that concealed the underlying historical features of a functional bathhouse. This process revealed changes the building had been subjected to over its life. Further, sub-soil investigations were conducted to determine soil conditions and constructions. Throughout the excavation process, artifacts were collected and catalogued.
In order to enhance the present-day experience of the Hammam’s historic function, the set of interventions comprised the preservation of extant elements, the exposure and display of original waterworks, drainage and heating networks (hypocaust systems and furnaces) as well as the original floor level that had been covered over with marble in 1991. Water ingress into and further decay of the building’s structure had been arrested. On the western side, the Hammam’s original entrance was also restored. The centuries old frescoes inside the Hammam had been cleaned and restored with the help of fresco conservation expertise from Sri Lanka.
To discover the original ground level, excavation of the monument was carried out. A retaining wall was built around the monument to make it secure for the locals and tourists.
Interestingly, many artifacts were found during the excavation, which are now placed in the museum area of hammam.
The conservation of the Shahi Hammam is a first of its kind in the Punjab province.
On 1st September 2016 the big news was announced in Bangkok that The Conservation of the 17th Century Shahi Hammam in the Walled City of Lahore has received the Award of Merit in 2016 UNESCO Asia-Pacific Awards for Cultural Heritage Conservation.
The 1,000 m² complex was rehabilitated over two years and interventions included the exposure, conservation and display of the original waterworks, drainage and heating networks as well as the historic floor level, restoration of the original entrance, internal chambers and architectural features including provisions for internal and external illumination.
Adaptive Re-use of Hammam – Making the dead monument alive!
After the conservation, the hammam was given a new life by introducing guided tours of Hammam, holding cultural evenings and setting up a souvenir shop along with a café for tourists. For the first time, the ages old closed monument was opened for the public and the locals. The opening of Hammam gave a completely new experience to the visitors while going around the walled city and Royal Trail.
A room next to the cold bath area (it was originally the waiting area of hammam) has now been converted into an audio-visual room. Visitors are shown a documentary on hammam in this room and small gatherings, meetings and intellectual sessions are conducted in this room.
Soon the hammam was in media and news coverage. Extensive marketing was done by WCLA to make people aware of the monument and its history and to increase the tourists’ influx in Hammam.
Now the Hammam is one of the most visited sites in walled city of Lahore after Lahore Fort and Badshahi Mosque. International and national architects, historians and experts have admired Hammam’s exquisiteness and conservation techniques.
Facilities for tourists like café, souvenir shop, tourist guides, print material, washrooms and information center are available inside this Hammam.
In 2016, UNESCO awarded the Shahi Hamam restoration project an Award of Merit for its high degree of technical proficiency and for returning the ornate Shahi Hammam to its former prominence. Excavations have unearthed a water heating structure, drainage systems, and under-floor remains of its hypocausts
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